BELLOC-HILLS AND THE SEA - THE ARENA


AT THE SIGN OF THE LION



It was late, and the day was already falling when I came, sitting my

horse Monster, to a rise of land. We were at a walk, for we had gone

very far since early morning, and were now off the turf upon the hard

road; moreover, the hill, though gentle, had been prolonged. From its

summit I saw before me, as I had seen it a hundred times, the whole of

the weald.

But now that landscape was transfigured, because many influences had met

to make it, for the moment, an enchanted land. The autumn, coming late,

had crowded it with colours; a slight mist drew out the distances, and

along the horizon stood out, quite even and grey like mountains, the

solemn presence of the Downs. Over all this the sky was full of storm.

In some manner which language cannot express, and hardly music, the

vision was unearthly. All the lesser heights of the plain ministered to

one effect, a picture which was to other pictures what the marvellous is

to the experience of common things. The distant mills, the edges of

heath and the pine trees, were as though they had not before been caught

by the eyes of travellers, and would not, after the brief space of their

apparition, be seen again. Here was a countryside whose every outline

was familiar; and yet it was pervaded by a general quality of the

uplifted and the strange. And for that one hour under the sunset the

county did not seem to me a thing well known, but rather adored.

The glow of evening, which had seemed to put this horizon into another

place and time than ours, warned me of darkness; and I made off the road

to the right for an inn I knew of, that stands close to the upper Arun

and is very good. Here an old man and his wife live easily, and have so

lived for at least thirty years, proving how accessible is content.

Their children are in service beyond the boundaries of the county, and

are thus provided with sufficiency; and they themselves, the old people,

enjoy a small possession which at least does not diminish, for, thank

God, their land is free. It is a square of pasture bordered by great

elms upon three sides of it, but on the fourth, towards the water, a

line of pollard willows; and off a little way before the house runs

Arun, sliding as smooth as Mincius, and still so young that he can

remember the lake in the forest where he rose.

On such ancestral land these two people await without anxiety what they

believe will be a kindly death. Nor is their piety of that violent and

tortured kind which is associated with fear and with distress of earlier

life; but they remain peasants, drawing from the earth they have always

known as much sustenance for the soul as even their religion can afford

them, and mixing that religion so intimately with their experience of

the soil that, were they not isolated in an evil time, they would have

set up some shrine about the place to sanctify it.

The passion and the strain which must accompany (even in the happiest

and most secluded) the working years of life, have so far disappeared

from them, that now they can no longer recall any circumstances other

than those which they enjoy; so that their presence in a room about one,

as they set rood before one or meet one at the door, is in itself an

influence of peace.

In such a place, and with such hosts to serve him, be wears of the world

retire for a little time, from an evening to a morning; and a man can

enjoy a great refreshment. In such a place he will eat strongly and

drink largely, and sleep well and deeply, and, when he saddles again for

his journey, he will take the whole world new; nor are those intervals

without their future value, for the memory of a complete repose is a

sort of sacrament, and a viaticum for the weary lengths of the way.

The stable of this place is made of oak entirely, and, after more than

a hundred years, the woodwork is still sound, save that the roof now

falls in waves where the great beams have sagged a little under the

pressure of the tiles. And these tiles are of that old hand-made kind

which, whenever you find them, you will do well to buy; for they have a

slight downward curve to them, and so they fit closer and shed the rain

better than if they were flat. Also they do not slip, and thus they put

less strain upon the timber. This excellent stable has no flooring but a

packed layer of chalk laid on the ground; and the wooden manger is all

polished and shining, where it has been rubbed by the noses of ten

thousand horses since the great war. That polishing was helped, perhaps,

by the nose of Percy's horse, and perhaps by the nose of some wheeler

who in his time had dragged the guns back aboard, retreating through the

night after Corunna. It is in every way a stable that a small peasant

should put up for himself, without seeking money from other men. It is,

therefore, a stable which your gaping scientists would condemn; and

though as yet they have not got their ugly hands upon the dwellings of

beasts as they have upon those of men, yet I often fear for this stable,

and am always glad when I come back and find it there. For the men who

make our laws are the same as those that sell us our bricks and our land

and our metals; and they make the laws so that rebuilding shall go on:

and vile rebuilding too.

Anyhow, this stable yet stands; and in none does the horse, Monster,

take a greater delight, for he also is open to the influence of

holiness. So I led him in, and tied him by the ancient headstall, and I

rubbed him down, and I washed his feet and covered him with the rough

rug that lay there. And when I had done all that, I got him oats from

the neighbouring bin; for the place knew me well, and I could always

tend to my own beast when I came there. And as he ate his oats, I said

to him: "Monster, my horse, is there any place on earth where a man,

even for a little time, can be as happy as the brutes? If there is, it

is here at the Sign of The Lion." And Monster answered: "There is a

tradition among us that, of all creatures that creep upon the earth, man

is the fullest of sorrow."

I left him then, and went towards the house. It was quite dark, and the

windows, with their square, large panes and true proportions, shone out

and made it home. The room within received me like a friend. The open

chimney at its end, round which the house is built, was filled with

beech logs burning; and the candles, which were set in brass, mixed

their yellow light with that of the fire. The long ceiling was low, as

are the ceilings of Heaven. And oak was here everywhere also: in the

beams and the shelves and the mighty table. For oak was, and will be

again, the chief wood of the weald.

When they put food and ale before me, it was of the kind which has been

English ever since England began, and which perhaps good fortune will

preserve over the breakdown of our generation, until we have England

back again. One could see the hops in the tankard, and one could taste

the barley, until, more and more sunk into the plenitude of this good

house, one could dare to contemplate, as though from a distant

standpoint, the corruption and the imminent danger of the time through

which we must lead our lives. And, as I so considered the ruin of the

great cities and their slime, I felt as though I were in a fortress of

virtue and of health, which could hold out through the pressure of the

war. And I thought to myself: "Perhaps even before our children are men,

these parts which survive from a better order will be accepted as

models, and England will be built again."

This fantasy had not time, tenuous as it was, to disappear, before there

came into that room a man whose gesture and bearing promised him to be

an excellent companion, but in whose eyes I also perceived some light

not ordinary. He was of middle age, fifty or more; his hair was crisp

and grey, his face brown, as though he had been much upon the sea. He

was tall in stature, and of some strength. He saluted me, and, when he

had eaten, asked me if I also were familiar with this inn.

"Very familiar," I said; "and since I can enter it at any hour freely,

it is now more familiar to me even than the houses that were once my

homes. For nowadays we, who work in the State and are not idle, must be

driven from one place to another; and only the very rich have certitude

and continuity. But to them it is of no service; for they are too idle

to take root in the soil."

"Yet I was of their blood," he said; "and there is in this county a home

which should be mine. But nothing to-day is capable of endurance. I have

not seen my home (though it is but ten miles from here) since I left it

in my thirtieth year; and I too would rather come to this inn, which I

know as you know it, than to any house in England; because I am certain

of entry, and because I know what I shall find, and because what I find

is what any man of this county should find, if the soul of it is not to

disappear."

"You, then," I answered (we were now seated side by side before the fire

with but one flickering candle behind us, and on the floor between us a

port just younger than the host), "you, then, come here for much the

same reason as do I?"

"And what is that?" said he.

"Why," said I, "to enjoy the illusion that Change can somewhere be

arrested, and that, in some shape, a part at least of the things we love

remains. For, since I was a boy and almost since I can remember,

everything in this house has been the same; and here I escape from the

threats of the society we know."

When I had said this, he was grave and silent for a little while; and

then he answered:

"It is impossible, I think, after many years to recover any such

illusion. Just as a young man can no longer think himself (as children

do) the actor in any drama of his own choosing, so a man growing old (as

am I) can no longer expect of any society--and least of all of his

own--the gladness that comes from an illusion of permanence."

"For my part," I answered in turn, "I know very well, though I can

conjure up this feeling of security, that it is very flimsy stuff; and

I take it rather as men take symbols. For though these good people will

at last perish, and some brewer--a Colonel of Volunteers as like as

not--will buy this little field, and though for the port we are drinking

there will be imperial port, and for the beer we have just drunk

something as noisome as that port, and though thistles will grow up in

the good pasture ground, and though, in a word, this inn will become a

hotel and will perish, nevertheless I cannot but believe that England

remains, and I do not think it the taking of a drug or a deliberate

cheating of oneself to come and steep one's soul in what has already

endured so long because it was proper to our country."

"All that you say," he answered, "is but part of the attempt to escape

Necessity. Your very frame is of that substance for which permanence

means death; and every one of all the emotions that you know is of its

nature momentary, and must be so if it is to be alive."

"Yet there is a divine thirst," I said, "for something that will not so

perish. If there were no such thirst, why should you and I debate such

things, or come here to The Lion either of us, to taste antiquity? And

if that thirst is there, it is a proof that there is for us some End and

some such satisfaction. For my part, as I know of nothing else, I cannot

but seek it in this visible good world. I seek it in Sussex, in the

nature of my home, and in the tradition of my blood."

But he answered: "No; it is not thus to be attained, the end of which

you speak. And that thirst, which surely is divine, is to be quenched in

no stream that we can find by journeying, not even in the little rivers

that run here under the combes of home."

MYSELF: "Well, then, what is the End?"

HE: "I have sometimes seen it clearly, that when the disappointed quest

was over, all this journeying would turn out to be but the beginning of

a much greater adventure, and that I should set out towards another

place where every sense should be fulfilled, and where the fear of

mutation should be set at rest."

MYSELF: "No one denies that such a picture in the mind haunts men their

whole lives through, though, after they have once experienced loss and

incompletion, and especially when they have caught sight a long way off

of the Barrier which ends all our experience, they recognise that

picture for a cheat; and surely nothing can save it? That which reasons

in us may be absolute and undying; for it is outside Time. It escapes

the gropings of the learned, and it has nothing to do with material

things. But as for all those functions which we but half fulfil in life,

surely elsewhere they cannot be fulfilled at all? Colour is for the eyes

and music is for the ears; and all that we love so much comes in by

channels that do not remain."

He: "Yet the Desire can only be for things that we have known; and the

Desire, as you have said, is a proof of the thing desired, and, but for

these things which we know, the words 'joy' and 'contentment' and

'fulfilment' would have no meaning."

MYSELF: "Why yes; but, though desires are the strongest evidence of

truth, yet there is also desire for illusions, as there is a waking

demand for things attainable, and a demand in dreams for things

fantastic and unreal. Every analogy increasingly persuades us, and so

does the whole scheme of things as we learn it, that, with our passing,

there shall also pass speech and comfortable fires and fields and the

voices of our children, and that, when they pass, we lose them for

ever."

He: "Yet these things would not be, but for the mind which receives

them; and how can we make sure what channels are necessary for the mind?

and may not the mind stretch on? And you, since you reject my guess at

what may be reserved for us, tell me, what is the End which we shall

attain?"

MYSELF: "Salva fide, I cannot tell."

Then he continued and said: "I have too long considered these matters

for any opposition between one experience and another to affect my

spirit, and I know that a long and careful inquiry into any matter must

lead the same man to opposing conclusions; but, for my part, I shall

confidently expect throughout that old age, which is not far from me,

that, when it ceases, I shall find beyond it things similar to those

which I have known. For all I here enjoy is of one nature; and if the

life of a man be bereft of them at last, then it is falsehood or

metaphor to use the word 'eternal.'"

"You think, then," said I, "that some immortal part in us is concerned

not only with our knowledge, but with our every feeling, and that our

final satisfaction will include a sensual pleasure: fragrance, and

landscape, and a visible home that shall be dearer even than these dear

hills?"

"Something of the sort," he said, and slightly shrugged his shoulders.

They were broad, as he sat beside me staring at the fire. They conveyed

in their attitude that effect of mingled strength and weariness which is

common to all who have travelled far and with great purpose, perpetually

seeking some worthy thing which they could never find.

The fire had fallen. Flames no longer leapt from the beech logs; but on

their under side, where a glow still lingered, embers fell.








THE AUTUMN AND THE FALL OF LEAVES



It is not true that the close of a life which ends in a natural

fashion--life which is permitted to put on the pomp of death and to go

out in glory--inclines the mind to repose. It is not true of a day

ending nor the passing of the year, nor of the fall of leaves. Whatever

permanent, uneasy question is native to men, comes forward most

insistent and most loud at such times.

There is a house in my own county which is built of stone, whose gardens

are fitted to the autumn. It has level alleys standing high and banked

with stone. Their ornaments were carved under the influence of that

restraint which marked the Stuarts. They stand above old ponds, and are

strewn at this moment with the leaves of elms. These walks are like the

Mailles of the Flemish cities, the walls of the French towns or the

terraces of the Loire. They are enjoyed to-day by whoever has seen all

our time go racing by; they are the proper resting-places of the aged,

and their spirit is felt especially in the fall of leaves.

At this season a sky which is of so delicate and faint a blue as to

contain something of gentle mockery, and certainly more of tenderness,

presides at the fall of leaves. There is no air, no breath at all. The

leaves are so light that they sidle on their going downward, hesitating

in that which is not void to them, and touching at last so imperceptibly

the earth with which they are to mingle, that the gesture is much

gentler than a salutation, and even more discreet than a discreet

caress.

They make a little sound, less than the least of sounds. No bird at

night in the marshes rustles so slightly; no man, though men are the

subtlest of living beings, put so evanescent a stress upon their sacred

whispers or their prayers. The leaves are hardly heard, but they are

heard just so much that men also, who are destined at the end to grow

glorious and to die, look up and hear them falling.

* * * * *

With what a pageantry of every sort is not that troubling symbol

surrounded! The scent of life is never fuller in the woods than now, for

the ground is yielding up its memories. The spring when it comes will

not restore this fullness, nor these deep and ample recollections of the

earth. For the earth seems now to remember the drive of the ploughshare

and its harrying; the seed, and the full bursting of it, the swelling

and the completion of the harvest. Up to the edge of the woods

throughout the weald the earth has borne fruit; the barns are full, and

the wheat is standing stacked in the fields, and there are orchards all

around. It is upon such a mood of parentage and of fruition that the

dead leaves fall.

The colour is not a mere splendour: it is intricate. The same unbounded

power, never at fault and never in calculation, which comprehends all

the landscape, and which has made the woods, has worked in each one

separate leaf as well; they are inconceivably varied. Take up one leaf

and see. How many kinds of boundary are there here between the stain

which ends in a sharp edge against the gold, and the sweep in which the

purple and red mingle more evenly than they do in shot-silk or in

flames? Nor are the boundaries to be measured only by degrees of

definition. They have also their characters of line. Here in this leaf

are boundaries intermittent, boundaries rugged, boundaries curved, and

boundaries broken. Nor do shape and definition ever begin to exhaust the

list. For there are softness and hardness too: the agreement and

disagreement with the scheme of veins; the grotesque and the simple in

line; the sharp and the broad, the smooth, and raised in boundaries. So

in this one matter of boundaries might you discover for ever new things;

there is no end to them. Their qualities are infinite. And beside

boundaries you have hues and tints, shades also, varying thicknesses of

stuff, and endless choice of surface; that list also is infinite, and

the divisions of each item in it are infinite; nor is it of any use to

analyse the thing, for everywhere the depth and the meaning of so much

creation are beyond our powers. And all this is true of but one dead

leaf; and yet every dead leaf will differ from its fellow.

That which has delighted to excel in boundlessness within the bounds of

this one leaf, has also transformed the whole forest. There is no number

to the particular colour of the one leaf. The forest is like a thing so

changeful of its nature that change clings to it as a quality, apparent

even during the glance of a moment. This forest makes a picture which is

designed, but not seizable. It is a scheme, but a scheme you cannot set

down. It is of those things which can best be retained by mere copying

with a pencil or a brush. It is of those things which a man cannot fully

receive, and which he cannot fully re-express to other men.

It is no wonder, then, that at this peculiar time, this week (or moment)

of the year, the desires which if they do not prove at least

demand--perhaps remember--our destiny, come strongest. They are proper

to the time of autumn, and all men feel them. The air is at once new and

old; the morning (if one rises early enough to welcome its leisurely

advance) contains something in it of profound reminiscence. The evenings

hardly yet suggest (as they soon will) friends and security, and the

fires of home. The thoughts awakened in us by their bands of light

fading along the downs are thoughts which go with loneliness and prepare

me for the isolation of the soul.

It is on this account that tradition has set, at the entering of autumn,

for a watch at the gate of the season, the Archangel; and at its close

the day and the night of All-Hallows on which the dead return.








THE GOOD WOMAN



Upon a hill that overlooks a western plain and is conspicuous at the

approach of evening, there still stands a house of faded brick faced

with cornerings of stone. It is quite empty, but yet not deserted. In

each room some little furniture remains; all the pictures are upon the

walls; the deep red damask of the panels is not faded, or if faded,

shows no contrast of brighter patches, for nothing has been removed from

the walls. Here it is possible to linger for many hours alone, and to

watch the slope of the hill under the level light as the sun descends.

Here passes a woman of such nobility that, though she is dead, the

landscape and the vines are hers.

It was in September, during a silence of the air, that I first saw her

as she moved among her possessions; she was smiling to herself as though

at a memory, but her smile was so slight and so dignified, so genial,

and yet so restrained, that you would have thought it part of everything

around and married (as she was) to the land which was now her own. She

wandered down the garden paths ruling the flowers upon either side, and

receiving as she went autumn and the fruition of her fields; plenitude

and completion surrounded her; the benediction of Almighty God must have

been upon her, for she was the fulfilment of her world.

Three fountains played in that garden--two, next to the northern and the

southern walls, were small and low; they rather flowed than rose. Two

cones of marble received their fall, and over these they spread in an

even sheet with little noise, making (as it were) a sheath of water

which covered all the stone; but the third sprang into the air with

delicate triumph, fine and high, satisfied, tenuous and exultant. This

one tossed its summit into the light, and, alone of the things in the

garden, the plash of its waters recalled and suggested activity--though

that in so discreet a way that it was to be heard rather than regarded.

The birds flew off in circles over the roofs of the town below us. Very

soon they went to their rest.

The slow transfiguration of the light by which the air became full of

colours and every outline merged into the evening, made of all I saw, as

I came up towards her, a soft and united vision wherein her advancing

figure stood up central and gave a meaning to the whole. I will not

swear that she did not as she came bestow as well as receive an

influence of the sunset. It was said by the ancients that virtue is

active, an agent, and has power to control created things; for, they

said, it is in a direct relation with whatever orders and has ordained

the general scheme. Such power, perhaps, resided in her hands. It would

have awed me but hardly astonished if, as the twilight deepened, the

inclination of the stems had obeyed her gesture and she had put the

place to sleep.

As I came near I saw her plainly. Her face was young although she was so

wise, but its youth had the aspect of a divine survival. Time adorned

it.

Music survives. Whatever is eternal in the grace of simple airs or in

the Christian innocence of Mozart was apparent, nay, had increased, in

her features as the days in passing had added to them not only

experience but also revelation and security. She was serene. The posture

of her head was high, and her body, which was visibly informed by an

immortal spirit, had in its carriage a large, a regal, an uplifted

bearing which even now as I write of it, after so many years, turns

common every other sight that has encountered me. This was the way in

which I first saw her upon her own hillside at evening.

With every season I returned. And with every season she greeted my

coming with a more generous and a more vivacious air. I think the years

slipped off and did not add themselves upon her mind: the common doom

of mortality escaped her until, perhaps, its sign was imposed upon her

hair--for this at last was touched all through with that appearance or

gleam which might be morning or which might be snow.

She was able to conjure all evil. Those desperate enemies of mankind

which lie in siege of us all around grew feeble and were silent when she

came. Nor has any other force than hers dared to enter the rooms where

she had lived: it is her influence alone which inhabits them to-day.

There is a vessel of copper, enamelled in green and gilded, which she

gave with her own hands to a friend overseas. I have twice touched it in

an evil hour.

Strength, sustenance, and a sacramental justice are permanent in such

lives, and such lives also attain before their close to so general a

survey of the world that their appreciations are at once accurate and

universal.

On this account she did not fail in any human conversation, nor was she

ever for a moment less than herself; but always and throughout her moods

her laughter was unexpected and full, her fear natural, her indignation

glorious.

Above all, her charity extended like a breeze: it enveloped everything

she knew. The sense of destiny faded from me as the warmth of that

charity fell upon my soul; the foreknowledge of death retreated, as did

every other unworthy panic.

She drew the objects of her friendship into something new; they breathed

an air from another country, so that those whom she deigned to regard

were, compared with other men, like the living compared with the dead;

or, better still, they were like men awake while the rest were tortured

by dreams and haunted of the unreal. Indeed, she had a word given to her

which saved all the souls of her acquaintance.

It is not true that influence of this sort decays or passes into vaguer

and vaguer depths of memory. It does not dissipate. It is not dissolved.

It does not only spread and broaden: it also increases with the passage

of time. The musicians bequeath their spirit, notably those who have

loved delightful themes and easy melodies. The poets are read for ever;

but those who resemble her do more, for they grow out upon the

centuries--they themselves and not their arts continue. There is stuff

in their legend. They are a tangible inheritance for the hurrying

generations of men.

She was of this kind. She was certainly of this kind. She died upon this

day[1] in the year 1892. In these lines I perpetuate her memory.

[Footnote 1: The 22nd of December.]








THE HARBOUR IN THE NORTH



Upon that shore of Europe which looks out towards no further shore, I

came once by accident upon a certain man.

The day had been warm and almost calm, but a little breeze from the

south-east had all day long given life to the sea. The seas had run very

small and brilliant, yet without violence, before the wind, and had

broken upon the granite cliffs to leeward, not in spouts of foam, but in

a white even line that was thin, and from which one heard no sound of

surge. Moreover, as I was running dead north along the coast, the noise

about the bows was very slight and pleasant. The regular and gentle wind

came upon the quarter without change, and the heel of the boat was

steady. No calm came with the late sunset; the breeze still held, and so

till nearly midnight I could hold a course and hardly feel the pulling

of the helm. Meanwhile the arch of the sunset endured, for I was far to

the northward, and all those colours which belong to June above the

Arctic Sea shone and changed in the slow progress of that arch as it

advanced before me and mingled at last with the dawn. Throughout the

hours of that journey I could see clearly the seams of the deck forward,

the texture of the canvas and the natural hues of the woodwork and the

rigging, the glint of the brasswork, and even the letters painted round

the little capstain-head, so continually did the light endure. The

silence which properly belongs to darkness, and which accompanies the

sleep of birds upon the sea, appeared to be the more intense because of

such a continuance of the light, and what with a long vigil and new

water, it was as though I had passed the edge of all known maps and had

crossed the boundary of new land.

In such a mood I saw before me the dark band of a stone jetty running

some miles off from the shore into the sea, and at the end of it a fixed

beacon whose gleam showed against the translucent sky (and its broken

reflection in the pale sea) as a candle shows when one pulls the

curtains of one's room and lets in the beginnings of the day.

For this point I ran, and as I turned it I discovered a little harbour

quite silent under the growing light; there was not a man upon its

wharves, and there was no smoke rising from its slate roofs. It was

absolutely still. The boat swung easily round in the calm water, the

pier-head slipped by, the screen of the pier-head beacon suddenly cut

off its glare, and she went slowly with no air in her canvas towards the

patch of darkness under the quay. There, as I did not know the place, I

would not pick up moorings which another man might own and need, but as

my boat still crept along with what was left of her way I let go the

little anchor, for it was within an hour of low tide, and I was sure of

water.

When I had done this she soon tugged at the chain and I slackened all

the halyards. I put the cover on the mainsail, and as I did so, looking

aft, I noted the high mountain-side behind the town standing clear in

the dawn. I turned eastward to receive it. The light still lifted, and

though I had not slept I could not but stay up and watch the glory

growing over heaven. It was just then, when I had stowed everything

away, that I heard to the right of me the crooning of a man.

A few moments before I should not have seen him under the darkness of

the sea-wall, but the light was so largely advanced (it was nearly two

o'clock) that I now clearly made out both his craft and him.

She was sturdy and high, and I should think of slight draught. She was

of great beam. She carried but one sail, and that was brown. He had it

loose, with the peak dipped ready for hoisting, and he himself was busy

at some work upon the floor, stowing and fitting his bundles, and as he

worked he crooned gently to himself. It was then that I hailed him, but

in a low voice, so much did the silence of that place impress itself

upon all living beings who were strange to it. He looked up and told me

that he had not seen me come in nor heard the rattling of the chain. I

asked him what he would do so early, whether he was off fishing at that

hour or whether he was taking parcels down the coast for hire or goods

to sell at some other port. He answered me that he was doing none of

those things.

"What cruise, then, are you about to take?" I said.

"I am off," he answered in a low and happy voice, "to find what is

beyond the sea."

"And to what shore," said I, "do you mean to sail?"

He answered: "I am out upon this sea northward to where they say there

is no further shore."

As he spoke he looked towards that horizon which now stood quite clean

and clear between the pier-heads: his eyes were full of the broad

daylight, and he breathed the rising wind as though it were a promise of

new life and of unexpected things. I asked him then what his security

was and had he formed a plan, and why he was setting out from this small

place, unless, perhaps, it was his home, of which he might be tired.

"No," he answered, and smiled; "this is not my home; and I have come to

it as you may have come to it, for the first time; and, like you, I came

in after the whole place slept; but as I neared I noticed certain shore

marks and signs which had been given me, and then I knew that I had come

to the starting-place of a long voyage."

"Of what voyage?" I asked.

He answered:

"This is that harbour in the North of which a Breton priest once told me

that I should reach it, and when I had moored in it and laid my stores

on board in order, I should set sail before morning and reach at last a

complete repose." Then he went on with eagerness, though still talking

low: "The voyage which I was born to make in the end, and to which my

desire has driven me, is towards a place in which everything we have

known is forgotten, except those things which, as we knew them,

reminded us of an original joy. In that place I shall discover again

such full moments of content as I have known, and I shall preserve them

without failing. It is in some country beyond this sea, and it has a

harbour like this harbour, only set towards the South, as this is

towards the North; but like this harbour it looks out over an unknown

sea, and like this harbour it enjoys a perpetual light. Of what the

happy people in this country are, or of how they speak, no one has told

me, but they will receive me well, for I am of one kind with themselves.

But as to how I shall know this harbour, I can tell you: there is a

range of hills, broken by a valley through which one sees a further and

a higher range, and steering for this hollow in the hills one sees a

tower out to sea upon a rock, and high up inland a white quarry on a

hill-top; and these two in line are the leading marks by which one gets

clear into the mouth of the river, and so to the wharves of the town.

And there," he ended, "I shall come off the sea for ever, and every one

will call me by my name."

The sun was now near the horizon, but not yet risen, and for a little

time he said nothing to me nor I to him, for he was at work sweating up

the halyard and setting the peak. He let go the mooring knot also, but

he held the end of the rope in his hand and paid it out, standing and

looking upward, as the sail slowly filled and his craft drifted towards

me. He pressed the tiller with his knee to keep her full.

I now knew by his eyes and voice that he was from the West, and I could

not see him leave me without asking him from what place he came that he

should set out for such another place. So I asked him: "Are you from

Ireland, or from Brittany, or from the Islands?" He answered me: "I am

from none of these, but from Cornwall." And as he answered me thus

shortly he still watched the sail and still pressed the tiller with his

knee, and still paid out the mooring rope without turning round.

"You cannot make the harbour," I said to him. "It is not of this world."

Just at that moment the breeze caught the peak of his jolly brown sail;

he dropped the tail of the rope: it slipped and splashed into the

harbour slime. His large boat heeled, shot up, just missed my cable; and

then he let her go free, and she ran clear away. As she ran he looked

over his shoulder and laughed most cheerily; he greeted me with his

eyes, and he waved his hand to me in the morning light.

He held her well. A clean wake ran behind her. He put her straight for

the harbour-mouth and passed the pier-heads and took the sea outside.

Whether in honest truth he was a fisherman out for fishes who chose to

fence with me, or whether in that cruise of his he landed up in a

Norwegian bay, or thought better of it in Orkney, or went through the

sea and through death to the place he desired, I have never known.

I watched him holding on, and certainly he kept a course. The sun rose,

the town awoke, but I would not cease from watching him. His sail still

showed a smaller and a smaller point upon the sea; he did not waver. For

an hour I caught it and lost it, and caught it again, as it dwindled;

for half another hour I could not swear to it in the blaze. Before I had

wearied it was gone.

* * * * *

Oh! my companions, both you to whom I dedicate this book and you who

have accompanied me over other hills and across other waters or before

the guns in Burgundy, or you others who were with me when I seemed

alone--that ulterior shore was the place we were seeking in every cruise

and march and the place we thought at last to see. We, too, had in mind

that Town of which this man spoke to me in the Scottish harbour before

he sailed out northward to find what he could find. But I did not follow

him, for even if I had followed him I should not have found the Town.







BELLOC-HILLS AND THE SEA - THE ARENA