BELLOC-On Something - "POSTPONED."


CAEDWALLA



Caedwalla, a prince out of Wales (though some deny it), wandered in the

Andredsweald. He was nineteen years of age and his heart was full of anger

for wrong that had been done him by men of his own blood. For he was

rightfully heir to the throne of the kingdom of Sussex, but he was kept

from it by the injustice of men.

A retinue went with him of that sort which will always follow adventure

and exile. These, the rich of the seacoast and of the Gwent called broken

men; but they loved their Lord. So he went hunting, feeding upon what he

slew, and proceeding from steading to steading in the sparse woods of

Andred where is sometimes an open heath, and sometimes a mile of oak, and

often a clay swamp, and, seen from little lifted knolls of sand where the

broom grows and the gorse, the Downs to the south like a wall.

As he so wandered upon one day, he came upon another man of a very

different fashion, for Caedwalla would have nothing to do with the Cross

of Christ, nor with the customs of the towns, nor with the talk of foreign

men. But this man was a bishop wandering, and his name was Wilfrid. He

also had his little retinue, and, by an accident of his office or of his

exile, he had proceeded to a steading in the heaths and woods of the

Weald where also was Caedwalla: so they met. The pride and the bearing of

Wilfrid, seeing that he was of a Roman town and an officer of the State,

and a bishop to boot, nay, a bishop above bishops, was not the pride

Caedwalla loved, and the young man bore himself with another sort of

pride, which was that of the mountains and of pagan men. Nevertheless

Wilfrid put before him, with Roman rhetoric and with uplifted hands, the

story of our Lord, and Caedwalla, keeping his face set during all that

recital, could not forbid this story to sink into the depths of his heart,

where for many years it remained, and did no more than remain.

The kingdom of Sussex, cultivated by men of various kinds, received

Wilfrid the Bishop wherever he went. He did many things that do not here

concern me, and his chief work was to make the rich towns of the sea plain

and of Chichester and of Lewes and of Arundel, and of the steadings of

the Weald, and of the wealden markets also, Christian men; for he showed

them that it was a mean thing to go about in a hairy way like pagans,

unacquainted with letters, and of imperfect ability in the making of

raiment or the getting of victuals. Indeed, as I have written in another

place, it was St. Wilfrid who taught the King of Sussex and his men how to

catch fish in nets. They revered him everywhere, and when they had given

up their shameful barbarism and decently accepted the rules of life and

the religion of it, they pressed upon St. Wilfrid that he should found a

bishopric, and that it should have a cathedral and a see (all of which

things he had explained to them), and he did this on Selsey Bill: but

to-day the sea has swallowed all.

Time passed, and the young man Caedwalla, still a very young man in the

twenties, came to his own, and he sat on the throne that was rightfully

his in Chichester and he ruled all Sussex to its utmost boundaries. And

he was king of much more, as history shows, but all the while he proudly

refused in his young man's heart the raiment and the manner of the thing

which he had hated in his exile, nor would he accept the Latin prayers,

nor bow to the name of the Christian God.

Caedwalla, still so young but now a king, thought it shameful that he

should rule no more than the empire God had given him, and he was filled

with a longing to cross the sea and to conquer new land. Wherefore,

whether well or ill advised, he set out to cross the sea and to conquer

the Isle of Wight, of which story said that Wight the hero had established

his kingdom there in the old time before writing was, and when there were

only songs. So Caedwalla and his fighting men, they landed in that island

and they fought against the many inhabitants of it, and they subdued it,

but in these battles Caedwalla was wounded.

It happened that the King of that island, whose name was Atwald, had two

heirs, youths, whom it was pitifully hoped this conqueror would spare, for

they fled up the Water to Stoneham; but a monk who served God by the ford

of reeds which is near Hampton at the head of the Water, hearing that King

Caedwalla (who was recovering of wounds he had had in the war with the men

of Wight) had heard of the youths' hiding-place and had determined to kill

them, sought the King and begged that at least they might be instructed

in the Faith before they died, saying to him: "King, though you are not

of the Faith, that is no reason that you should deprive others of such

a gift. Let me therefore see that these young men are instructed and

baptized, after which you may exercise your cruel will." And Caedwalla

assented. These lads, therefore, were taken to a holy place up on Itchen,

where they were instructed in the truths and the mysteries of religion.

And while this so went forward Caedwalla would ask from time to time

whether they were yet Christians.

At last they had received all the knowledge the holy men could give them

and they were baptized. When they were so received into the fold Caedwalla

would wait no longer but had them slain. And it is said that they went to

death joyfully, thinking it to be no more than the gate of immortality.

After such deeds Caedwalla still reigned over the kingdom of Sussex and

his other kingdoms, nor did he by speech or manner give the rich or poor

about him to understand whether anything was passing in his heart. But

while they sang Mass in the cathedral of Selsey and while still the

new-comers came (now more rarely, for nearly all were enrolled): while

the new-comers came, I say, in their last numbers from the remotest parts

of the forest ridge, and from the loneliest combes of the Downs to hear

of Christ and his cross and his resurrection and the salvation of men,

Caedwalla sat in Chichester and consulted his own heart only and was a

pagan King. No one else you may say in all the land so kept himself apart.

His youth had been thus spent and he thus ruled, when as his thirtieth

year approached he gave forth a decision to his nobles and to his earls

and to the Welsh-speaking men and to the seafaring men and to the priests

and to all his people. He said: "I will take ship and I will go over the

sea to Rome, where I may worship at the tombs of the blessed Apostles, and

there I will be baptized. But since I am a king no one but the Pope shall

baptize me. I will do penance for my sins. I will lift my eyes to things

worthy of a man. I will put behind me what was dear to me, and I will

accept that which is to come." And as they could not alter Caedwalla

in any of his previous decisions, so they could not alter him in this.

But his people gave gladly for the furnishing of his journey, and all

the sheep of the Downs and their fleece, and all the wheat in the clay

steadings of the Weald, and the little vineyards in the priests' gardens

that looked towards the sea, and the fishermen, and every sort in Sussex

that sail or plough or clip or tend sheep or reap or forge iron at the

hammer ponds, gave of what they had to King Caedwalla, so that he went

forth with a good retinue and many provisions upon his journey to the

tombs of the Apostles.

When King Caedwalla came to Rome the Pope received him and said: "I hear

that you would be instructed in the Faith." To which King Caedwalla

answered that such was his desire, and that he would crave baptism at the

hands of the said Pope. And meanwhile Caedwalla took up good lodgings in

Rome, gave money to the poor, and showed himself abroad as one who had

come from the ends of the earth, that is, from the kingdom of Sussex,

which in those days was not yet famous. Caedwalla, now being thirty years

old and having learnt what one should learn in order to receive baptism,

was baptized, and they put a white robe on him which he was to wear for

certain days.

King Caedwalla, when he was thus made one with the unity of Christian men,

was very glad. But he also said that before he had lost that white robe so

given him, death would come and take him (though he was a young man and a

warrior), and that not in battle. He was certain it was so.

And so indeed it came about. For within the limit of days during which

ritual demanded that the King should wear his white garment, nay, within

that same week, he died.

So those boys who had found death at his hands had died after baptism,

up on Itchen in the Gwent, when Caedwalla the King had journeyed out of

Sussex to conquer and to hold the Wight with his spear and his sword and

his shield, and his captains and his armoured men.

Now that you have done reading this story you may think that I have made

it up or that it is a legend or that it comes out of some storyteller's

book. Learn, therefore, that it is plain history, like the battle of

Waterloo or the Licensing Bill (differing from the chronicle only in this,

that I have put living words into the mouths of men), and be assured that

the history of England is a very wonderful thing.








A UNIT OF ENGLAND



England has been lucky in its type of subdivision. All over Western

Europe the type of subdivision following in the fall of the Empire has

been of capital importance in the development of the great nations,

but while these have elsewhere been exaggerated to petty kingdoms or

diminished to mere townships in Britain, for centuries the counties have

formed true and lasting local units, and they have survived with more

vigour than the corresponding divisions of the other provinces of Roman

Europe.

That accident of the county moulded and sustained local feeling during

the generations when local government and local initiative were dying

elsewhere; it has preserved a sort of aristocratic independence, the

survival of custom, and the differentiation of the State.

It is not necessarily (as many historians unacquainted with Europe as a

whole have taken for granted) a supreme advantage for any people to escape

from institution of a strong central executive. Such a power is the normal

fruit of all high civilizations. It protects the weak against the strong.

It is necessary for rapid action in war, it makes for clarity and method

during peace, it secures a minimum for all, and it forbids the illusions

and vices of the rich to taint the whole commonwealth.

But though such an escape from strong central government and the

substitution for it of a ruling class is not a supreme advantage, it

has advantages of its own which every foreign historian of England has

recognized, and it is the divisions into counties which, after the change

of religion in the sixteenth century, was mainly responsible for the

slow substitution of local and oligarchic for general, central, and

bureaucratic government in England.

Not all the counties by any means are true to type. All the Welsh

divisions, for instance, are more or less artificial and late, with the

exception of Anglesey. And as for the non-Roman parts, Ireland and the

Highlands of Scotland, it goes without saying that the county never was,

and is not to this day, a true unit. The central and much of the west of

England is the same. That is, the shires are cut as their name implies,

somewhat arbitrarily, from the general mass of territory.

When one says "arbitrarily" one does not mean that no local sentiment

bound them, or that they had not some natural basis, for they had. They

were the territory of central towns: Shrewsbury, Warwick, Derby, Chester,

Oxford, Buckingham, Bedford, Nottingham. But their life was not and has

not since been strongly individual. They have not continuous boundaries

nor an early national root. But all round these, in a sort of ring, run

the counties which have had true local life from the beginning. Cornwall

is utterly different from Devon, and with a clear historic reason for the

difference. Devon, again, is a perfectly separate unit, resulting from a

definite political act of the early ninth century. Of Dorset and Hampshire

one can say less, but with Sussex you get a unit which has been one

kingdom and one diocese, set in true natural limits and lying within

these same boundaries for much more than a thousand years. Kent, probably

an original Roman division, has been one unit for longer still. Norfolk,

Suffolk, and Essex are equally old, though not upon their land boundaries

equally denned; but perhaps the most sharply defined of all--after Sussex,

at least--was Southern and Central Lancashire.

Its topography was like one of those ideal examples which military

instructors take for their models when they wish to simplify a lesson

upon terrain. Upon one side ran the long, high, and difficult range which

is the backbone of England; upon the other the sea, and the sea and the

mountains leant one towards the other, making two sides of a triangle

that met above Morecambe Bay.

How formidable the natural barriers of this triangle were it is not easy

for the student of our time to recognize. It needs a general survey of the

past, and a knowledge of many unfamiliar conditions in the present, to

appreciate it.

The difficulty of those Eastern moors and hills, for instance, the

resistance they offer to human passage, meets you continually throughout

English history. The engineers of the modern railways could give one a

whole romance of it; the story of every army that has had to cross them,

and of which we have record, bears the same witness. The illusion which

the modern traveller may be under that the barrier is negligible is very

soon dispelled when for his recreation he crosses it by any other methods

than the railway; and perhaps in such an experience of travel nothing more

impresses one in the character of that barrier than the loneliness.

There is no other corresponding contrast of men and emptiness that I know

of in Europe.

The great towns lie, enormous, pullulating, millioned in the plains on

either side; they push their limbs up far into the valleys. Between them,

utterly deserted, you have these miles and miles of bare upland, like the

roof of a house between two crowded streets.

Merely to cross the Pennines, driving or on foot, is sufficient to teach

one this. To go the length of the hills along the watershed from the

Peak to Crossfell (few people have done it!) is to get an impression of

desertion and separation which you will match nowhere else in travel,

nowhere else, at least, within touch and almost hearing of great towns.

The sea also was here more of a barrier than a bond. Ireland--not Roman,

and later an enemy--lay over against that shore. Its ports (save one)

silted. Its slope from the shore was shallow: the approach and the

beaching of a fleet not easy. Its river mouths were few and dangerous.

This triangle of Lancashire, so cut off from the west and from the east,

had for its base a barrier that completed its isolation. That barrier

was the marshy valley of the Mersey. It could be outflanked only at

its extreme eastern point, where the valley rises to the hundred-foot

contour line. From that point the valley rises so rapidly within half a

dozen miles into the eastern hills that it was dry even under primitive

conditions, and the opportunity here afforded for a passage is marked

by the topographical point of Stockport.

By that gate the main avenues of approach still enter the county. Through

this gap passed the London Road, and passes to-day the London and

North-Western Railway. It was this gate which gave its early strategic

importance to Manchester, lying just north of it and holding the whole of

this corner.

Historians have noted that to hold Manchester was ultimately to hold

Lancashire itself. It was not the industrial importance of the town, for

that was hardly existent until quite modern times: it was its strategic

position which gave it such a character. The Roman fort at the junction

of the two rivers near Knott Mill represented the first good defensible

position commanding this gate upon the south-east.

To enter the county anywhere west of the hundred-foot contour and the

Mersey Valley was, for an army deprived of modern methods, impossible:

a little organized destruction would make it impossible again.

Two artificial causeways negotiated the valley. Each bears to this day (at

Stretford and at Stretton) the proof of its old character, for both words

indicate the passage of a "street," that is, of a hard-made way, over the

soft and drowned land. Stretford was but the approach to Manchester from

Chester--and Manchester thus commanded (by the way) the two south-eastern

approaches to the county, the one natural, the other artificial. The

approach by Stretton gave Warrington its strategic importance in the early

history of the county; Warrington, the central point upon the Mersey,

standing at a clear day's march from Liverpool, the port on the one

hand, and a clear day's march from Manchester on the other. It was from

Warrington that Lord Strange marched upon Manchester at the very beginning

of the Civil War, and if by some accident this stretch of territory should

again be a scene of warfare, Warrington, in spite of the close network of

modern communications, would be the strategic centre of the county

boundary.

So one might take the units out of which modern England has been built

up one by one, showing that their boundaries were fixed by nature, and

that their local separation was not the product of the pirate raids, but

is something infinitely older, older than the Empire, and very probably

(did we know what the Roman divisions of Britain were) accepted under

the Empire. So one might prove or at least suggest that the strategical

character of the English county and of its chief stronghold and barriers

lay in an origin far beyond the limits of recorded history. To produce

such a study would be to add to the truth and reality of our history, for

England was not made nor even moulded by the Danish and the Saxon raids.

The framework is far, far older and so strong that it still survives.








THE RELIC



It was upon an evening in Spain, but with nothing which that word evokes

for us in the North--for it was merely a lessening of the light without

dews, without mists, and without skies--that I came up a stony valley

and saw against the random line of the plateau at its head the dome of a

church. The road I travelled was but faintly marked, and was often lost

and mingled with the rough boulders and the sand, and in the shallow

depression of the valley there were but a few stagnant pools.

The shape of the dome was Italian, and it should have stood in an Italian

landscape, drier indeed than that to which Northerners are accustomed,

but still surrounded by trees, and with a distance that could render

things lightly blue. Instead of that this large building stood in the

complete waste which I have already described at such length, which is so

appalling and so new to an European from any other province of Europe. As

I approached the building I saw that there gathered round it a village, or

rather a group of dependent houses; for the church was so much larger than

anything in the place, and the material of which the church itself and the

habitations were built was so similar, the flat old tiled roofs all mixed

under the advance of darkness into so united a body, that one would have

said, as was perhaps historically the truth, that the church was not built

for the needs of the place, but that the borough had grown round the

shrine, and had served for little save to house its servants.

When the long ascent was ended and the crest reached, where the head of

the valley merged into the upper plain, I passed into the narrow first

lanes. It was now quite dark. The darkness had come suddenly, and, to

make all things consonant, there was no moon and there were not any

stars; clouds had risen of an even and menacing sort, and one could see no

heaven. Here and there lights began to show in the houses, but most people

were in the street, talking loudly from their doorsteps to each other.

They watched me as I came along because I was a foreigner, and I went down

till I reached the central market-place, wondering how I should tell the

best place for sleep. But long before my choice could be made my thoughts

were turned in another direction by finding myself at a turn of the

irregular paving, right in front of a vast façade, and behind it, somewhat

belittled by the great length of the church itself, the dome just showed.

I had come to the very steps of the church which had accompanied my

thoughts and had been a goal before me during all the last hours of the

day.

In the presence of so wonderful a thing I forgot the object of my journey

and the immediate care of the moment, and I went through the great doors

that opened on the Place. These were carved, and by the little that

lingered of the light and the glimmer of the electric light on the

neighbouring wall (for there is electric light everywhere in Spain, but it

is often of a red heat) I could perceive that these doors were wonderfully

carved. Already at Saragossa, and several times during my walking south

from thence, I had noted that what the Spaniards did had a strange

affinity to the work of Flanders. The two districts differ altogether save

in the human character of those who inhabit them: the one is pastoral,

full of deep meadows and perpetual woods, of minerals and of coal for

modern energy, of harbours and good tidal rivers for the industry of the

Middle Ages; the other is a desert land, far up in the sky, with an air

like a knife, and a complete absence of the creative sense in nature about

one. Yet in both the creation of man runs riot; in both there is a sort

of endlessness of imagination; in both every detail that man achieves

in art is carefully completed and different from its neighbour; and in

both there is an exuberance of the human soul: but with this difference,

that something in the Spanish temper has killed the grotesque. Both

districts have been mingled in history, yet it is not the Spaniard who has

invigorated the Delta of the Rhine and the high country to the south of

it, nor the Walloons and the Flemings who have taught the Spaniards; but

each of these highly separated peoples resembles the other when it comes

to the outward expression of the soul: why, I cannot tell.

Within, there is not a complete darkness, but a series of lights showing

against the silence of the blackness of the nave; and in the middle of

the nave, like a great funeral thing, was the choir which these Spanish

churches have preserved, an intact tradition, from the origins of the

Christian Faith. Go to the earliest of the basilicas in Rome, and you

will see that sacred enclosure standing in the middle of the edifice and

taking up a certain proportion of the whole. We in the North, where the

Faith lived uninterruptedly and, after the ninth century, with no great

struggle, dwindled this feature and extended the open and popular space,

keeping only the rood-screen as a hint of what had once been the Secret

Mysteries and the Initiations of our origins. But here in Spain the

earliest forms of Christian externals crystallized, as it were; they

were thrust, like an insult or a challenge, against the Asiatic as the

reconquest of the desolated province proceeded; and therefore in every

Spanish church you have, side by side with the Christian riot of art, this

original hierarchic and secret thing, almost shocking to a Northerner, the

choir, the Coro, with high solemn walls shutting out the people from the

priests and from the Mysteries as they had been shut out when the whole

system was organized for defence against an inimical society around.

The silence of the place was not complete nor, as I have said, was the

darkness. At the far end of the choir, behind the high altar, was the

light of many candles, and there were people murmuring or whispering,

though not at prayers. There was a young priest passing me at that moment,

and I said to him in Latin of the common sort that I could speak no

Spanish. I asked him if he could speak to me slowly in Latin, as I was

speaking to him. He answered me with this word, "Paucissime," which

I easily understood. I then asked him very carefully, and speaking slowly,

whether Benediction were about to be held--an evening rite; but as I did

not know the Latin for Benediction, I called it alternately "Benedictio,"

which is English, and "Salus," which is French. He said twice, "Si, si,"

which, whether it were Italian or French or local, I understood by the

nodding of his head; but at any rate he had not caught my meaning, for

when I came behind the high altar where the candles were, and knelt there,

I clearly saw that no preparations for Benediction were toward. There was

not even an altar. All there was was a pair of cupboard doors, as it were,

of very thickly carved wood, very heavily gilded and very old; indeed, the

pattern of the carving was barbaric, and I think it must have dated from

that turn of the Dark into the Middle Ages when so much of our Christian

work resembled the work of savages: spirals and hideous heads, and

serpents and other things.

By this I was already enormously impressed, and by a little group of

people around of whom perhaps half were children, when the young priest to

whom I had spoken approached and, calling a well-dressed man of the middle

class who stood by and who had, I suppose, some local prominence, went up

the steps with him towards these wooden doors; he fitted a key into the

lock and opened them wide. The candles shone at once through thick clear

glass upon a frame of jewels which flashed wonderfully, and in their

midst was the head of a dead man, cut off from the body, leaning somewhat

sideways, and changed in a terrible manner from the expression of living

men. It was so changed, not only by incalculable age, but also, as I

presume, by the violence of his death.

To those inexperienced in the practice of such worship there might be more

excuse for the novel impression which this sight suddenly produced upon

me. Our race from its very beginning, nay, all the races of men, have

preserved the fleshly memorials of those to whom sanctity attached, and I

have seen such relics in many parts of Europe almost as commonplaces; but

for some reason my emotions upon that evening were of a different kind.

The length of the way (for I was miles and miles southwards over this

desert waste), the ignorance of the language which surrounded me, the

inhuman outline hour after hour under the glare of the sun, or in the

inhospitable darkness of this hard Iberian land, the sternness of the

faces, the violent richness and the magnitude of the architecture about

me, and my knowledge of the trials through which the province had passed,

put me in this Presence into a mood very different, I think, from that

which pilgrimage is calculated to arouse; there was in it much more of

awe, and even of terror; there seemed to re-arise in the presence of

that distorted face the memories of active pain and of the unconquerable

struggle by which this ruined land was recovered. I wondered as I looked

at that face whether he had fallen in protest against the Mohammedans, or,

as have so many, in a Spanish endurance of torture, martyred by Pagans in

the Pacific Seas. But no history of him was given to me, nor do I now know

as I write what occasion it was that made this head so great.

They said but a few prayers, all familiar to me, in the Latin tongue; then

the "Our Father" and some few others which have always been recited in the

vernacular. They next intoned the Salve Regina. But what an intonation!

Had I not heard that chant often enough in my life to catch its meaning?

I had never heard it set to such a tune! It was harsh, it was full of

battle, and the supplication in it throbbed with present and physical

agony. Had I cared less for the human beings about me, so much suffering,

so much national tradition of suffering would have revolted, as it did

indeed appal, me. The chant came to an end, and the three gracious

epithets in which it closes were full of wailing, and the children's

voices were very high.

Then the priest shut the doors and locked them, and a boy came and blew

the candles out one by one, and I went out into the market-place, fuller

than ever of Spain.








THE IRONMONGER



When I was in the French army we came one day with the guns in July along

a straight and dusty road and clattered into the village called Bar-le-Duc.

Of the details of such marches I have often written. I wish now to speak of

another thing, which, in long accounts of mere rumbling of guns, one might

never have time to tell, but which is really the most important of all

experiences under arms in France--I mean the older civilians, the fathers.

Who made the French army? Who determined to recover from the defeats and

to play once more that determined game which makes up half French history,

the "Thesaurization," the gradual reaccumulation of power? The general

answer to such questions is to say: "The nation being beaten had to set

to and recover its old position." That answer is insufficient. It deals

in abstractions and it tells you nothing. Plenty of political societies

throughout history have sat down under disaster and consented to sink

slowly. Many have done worse--they have maintained after sharp warnings

the pride of their blind years; they have maintained that pride on into

the great disasters, and when these came they have sullenly died. France

neither consented to sink nor died by being overweening. Some men must

have been at work to force their sons into the conscription, to consent

to heavy taxation, to be vigilant, accumulative, tenacious, and, as it

were, constantly eager. There must have been classes in which, unknown to

themselves, the stirp of the nation survived; individuals who, aiming at

twenty different things, managed, as a resultant, to carry up the army

to the pitch in which I had known it and to lay a slow foundation for

recovered vigour. Who were these men?

I had read of them in Birmingham when I was at school; I had read of them

in books when I read of the Hundred Years' War and of the Revolution.

I was to read of them again in books at Oxford. But on that Saturday

at Bar-le-Duc I saw one of them, and by as much as the physical

impression is worth more than the secondary effect of history, my sight

of them is worth writing down.

A man in my battery, one Matthieu, told me he had leave to go out for the

evening, and told me also to go and get leave. He said his uncle had asked

him to dine and bring a friend. It seemed his uncle lived in a villa on

the heights above the town; he was an ironmonger who had retired. I went

to my Sergeant and asked him for leave.

My Sergeant was a noble who was working his way up through the ranks, and

when I found him he was checking off forage at a barn where some of our

men were working. He looked me hard in the eyes, and said in a drawling

lackadaisical voice:

"You are the Englishman?"

"Yes, Sergeant," said I a little anxiously (for I was very keen to get a

good dinner in town after all that marching).

"Well," said he, "as you are the Englishman you can go." Such is the logic

of the service.

The army is no place to argue, and I went. I suppose what he meant was,

"As we are both more or less in exile, take my blessing and be off," but

he may merely have meant to be inconsequent, for inconsequence is the wit

of schoolboys and soldiers. I went up the hill with my friend.

The long twilight was still broad over the hill and the old houses of

Bar-le-Duc, as we climbed. It was night by the clock, but one could have

seen to read. We were tired, and talked of nothing in particular, but such

things as we said were full of the old refrain of conscripts: "Dog of a

trade," "When shall we be out of it?" Even as we spoke there was pride in

our breasts at the noise of trumpets in the mist below along the river and

the Eighth making its presence known, and our uniforms and our swords.

We stopped at last before a little square house with "The Lilacs" painted

on its gate; there was a parched little lawn, a little fountain, a tripod

supporting a globular mirror, and we went in.

Matthieu's uncle met us; he was in a cotton suit walking about among his

flowers and enjoying the evening. He was a man of about fifty, short,

strong, brown, and abrupt. Though it was already evening and one could see

little, we knew well enough that his eyes were steady and dark. For he

had the attitude and carriage of those men who invigorate France. His

self-confidence was evident in his sturdy legs and his arms akimbo, his

vulgarity in his gesture, his narrowness in his forward and peering look,

his indomitable energy in every movement of his body. It did not surprise

me to learn in his later conversation that he was a Republican. He spoke

at once to us both, saying in a kind of grumbling shout:

"Well, gunners!"

Then he spoke roughly to his nephew, telling him we were late: to me

a little too politely saying he put no blame on me, but only on his

scapegrace of a nephew. I said that our lateness was due to having to

find the Sergeant. He answered:

"One must always put the blame on some one else," which was rank bad

manners.

He led the way into the house. The dining-room gave on to a veranda,

and beyond this was another little lawn with trees. In the dark a few

insects chirped, and, as the evening was warmish, one smelt the flowers.

The windows had been left open. Everything was clean, neat, and bare. On

the walls were two excellent old prints, a badly drawn certificate of

membership in some society or other, a still worse portrait of a local

worthy, and a water-colour painted, I suppose, by his daughter.

He introduced me to his wife, a hard-featured woman, with thin hair, full

of duty, busy and precise--fresh from the kitchen. We unhooked our swords

with the conventional clatter, and sat down to the meal.

I will confess that as we ate those excellent dishes (they were all

excellent) and drank that ordinary wine, I seemed to be living in a book

rather than among living men. Here was I, a young English boy, thrust

by accident into the French army. Fairly acquainted with its language,

though I spoke it with an accent; taken (of course) by my host for a pure

Englishman, though half my blood was French. Here was I sitting at his

side and watching things, and learning--as for him, men like him, of whom

England has some few left in forgotten villages, and who are, when they

can be found, the strength of a State, they never bother about

learning anything far removed from their realities.

I noticed the one servant going in and out rapidly, bullied a good deal by

her master, deft but nervous. I noticed how everything was solid and good:

the chairs, table, clock, clothes--and especially the cooking. I saw his

local newspaper neatly folded on the mantelpiece. I saw the pet dog of his

retirement crouching at his side, and I heard the chance sayings he threw

to his nephew, the maxims granted to youth long ago. I wondered how much

that nephew would inherit. I guessed about ten thousand pounds at the

least, and twenty at the most. I was almost inclined to cross myself at

the thought of such a lot of money.

My host grew more genial: he asked me questions on England. His wife also

was interested in that country. They both knew more about it than their

class in England knows about France: and this astonished me, for, in the

gentry, English gentlemen know more about France than French gentlemen

know about England.

He asked me if agriculture were still in a bad way; why we had not more

of the people at the Universities; why we allowed only lords into our

Parliament, and whether there were more French commercial travellers in

England than English commercial travellers in France. In all these points

I admitted, supplemented, and corrected, and probably distorted his

impressions.

He asked me if English gunners were good. I said I did not know, but I

thought so. He replied that the English drivers had a high reputation in

his country--his brother (the brother of an ironmonger) was a Captain of

the Horse Artillery, and had told him so. And this he said to me, who wore

a French uniform, but whose heart was away up in Arun Valley, in my own

woods, and at rest and alone.

In the last hour when we had to be getting back a certain tenderness came

into his somewhat mercenary look. He devoted himself more to his nephew;

he took him aside, and, with some ceremony, gave him money. He offered us

cigars. We took one each. His round French face became all wrinkles, like

a cracked plate. He said:

"Bah! Take them by the pocketful! We know what life is in the regiment,"

and he crammed half a dozen each into the pocket of our tunics. But when

he said "We know what the life is," he lied. For he had only been a

"mobile" in '70. He had voted, but never suffered, the conscription.

So we said good night to this man, our host, who had so regaled us. I may

be wrong, but I fancy he was an anti-clerical. He was a hard man, just,

eager, and attentive, narrow, as I have said, and unconsciously (as I have

also said) building up the nation.

There was the Ironmonger of Bar-le-Duc; and there are hundreds of

thousands of the same kind.








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